Reminiscent of an ancient summer palace built for a prince and his horses, this hotel reads like a love letter to Marrakech, complete with grand stables and Arabian stallions dotted around the palatial Ottoman architecture. It turns out that’s not far off from the truth; the son of the founder, Abdeslam Bennani Smires, wanted to combine his love of hotels and riding (he’s a show jumping champion as well as maestro hotelier). Decor is Arabian by way of Hermès; the equestrian theme permeating throughout the dark wood and leather studded furnishings, Mapplethorpe-esque black and white equine photography, as well as the paddocks that define the resort’s layout. The rooms themselves are wonderfully considered, with large beds, tiled dining tables and sofa nooks, divided by hand-carved wood panelling and decorated in traditional Moorish style with monochrome Zelliges tiles juxtaposing the plush, warm-hued furnishings.
There are several restaurants spread out around the resort. A favorite is the Pavillion, located between the horse paddocks, for breakfast. There’s live music from traditional Berger musicians while waiters ask you how you like your eggs. Do make sure to stroll up to the stables themselves—grand, black and gold colonnades (so grand in fact that Madonna recently hosted her birthday dinner here), for the 20-or-so Arabian horses, a breed so beautiful that it’s forbidden to ride. Come sundown the table to book is Assyl, a majestic temple-like structure at the far end of the hotel, gilded to the rafters with handicraft and antiques, including its intricate carved wood walls and ceiling, a tradition used in Ottoman palaces. In the kitchen is a majority female team of chefs, serving up national ‘home comfort’ dishes: sea bream tajines, mint and cumin roasted lamb, towers of couscous.
The overall impression, despite the five star service, impeccable rooms, spectacular kids club, and first rate spa, is not one of a hotel, but of a private home, hired for a particularly lavish celebration. Everything here is personal, warm, joyous, and inviting. Do make sure to stay for the Sunday brunch, where the entire resort descends to the paddock area for jolly mariachi bands, a parade from the horses, and free-flowing Champagne. A home away from home, if your home is an Arabian palace. —Charlotte Davey
