For the uninitiated, Gleneagles Townhouse is a gold-star hotel tucked away in the crumpled hills of Perthshire, with two championship golf courses, country sports on tap, and Restaurant Andrew Fairlie, Scotland’s only two Michelin-star establishment. It took longer than it should have, but the owners saw fit to open a satellite in Edinburgh, and—aside from its swanky rooms—it’s now the place to be for all-day dining, pre-theatre visits, and the type of restaurant-goer who insists on a gin and tonic or sherry cobbler before lunch. Design-wise, The Spence is a beauty, with a shouty bas-relief ceiling, marble pillars, decorative bar, pastel pink stools, and fern explosions—wear a feather boa, and you won’t look out of place. Like the finest brasseries worldwide, this is also the realm of pricey shellfish and sirloin, chops and rumps, with home turf stars like Mull scallops, Gigha halibut, and Tweed Valley prime rib setting you back as much as $138. This fits the well-heeled crowd, though, so remember it’s the theatre around you, as well as the drama on your plate, that makes this one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh. If you happen to be in Edinburgh on the last weekend of the month, you can partake in arguably the city’s most decadent event: The Spence Brunch Club. Expect Bloody Mary stations with all the toppings, an unlimited buffet with freshly caught Scottish shellfish and seafood, and, the main event: a dessert room.
The Scran and Scallie
If there’s one thing guaranteed to put bums on seats in Edinburgh, it’s Tom Kitchin’s name on the door. The wiggly-haired, Michelin-starred chef and cookbook author is an honorary son of the city and this neighborhood gastro-pub is as close to an arm-around-the-shoulder as you can get. The Scran and Scallie is a family-friendly affair, and the menu refuses to be drawn into snooty territory, despite the top-end prices. First comes haggis, neeps and tatties, silky home-cured salmon on rye, or Cullen Skink with dribbly poached egg. Next up, it’s the turn of far-from-humdrum fish and chips, steak pie with a bone marrow top hat, and seasonal game (a strong suit). Hands-on staff are part of the success story, as is the ever-evolving location: Stockbridge is a gorgeous part of the city to be in, so it should come as no surprise you’ll need a reservation. Particularly during the Sunday rush, when the menu is boosted by heaped roast meats that are the culinary equivalent of Edinburgh itself—all with hidden layers and an underbelly of flavor.
