Many of the wineries in the Cinti Valley are driven by the personalities of their winemakers. The perfect example of this is Weymar Ríos Cavero of Cepas de Fuego. Even though he is in the process of modernizing his production facility, Cavero still takes time to meet visitors and share his passion for Syrah and Tannat, as well as Port and singani.
Keep an eye out for Vischoqueña, an endemic grape variety which is a cross between Moscatel of Alexandria, an ancient white grape, and Negra Criolla, a late-season red. First promoted as a varietal wine by Bodega Tierra Roja’s Christian Villamor in 2010, the Vischoqueña mantel has since been taken up by Yokich, Cepa de Oro, and Jardín Oculto among others. The grape tends to have fruity aromas with notes of berries and stone fruits, lending itself naturally to fresh reds, rosés, and even Blanc de Noirs. Book lunch at Cepa de Oro to better understand which dishes to pair with Vischoqueña.
In San Francisco de la Horca, visit Vacaflores which specializes in heritage grapes and small batches for flavorful and innovative bottles. The last stop on their tour is at their shop, a block off the main square in Camargo, offering the chance to explore the quaint village’s flowery plazas.
Beyond the wine in Cinti Valley: For a taste of history, head to San Pedro, which claims to be the original singani producer dating back to 1550. You can also visit the historic eponymous village, or go hiking in the surrounding valleys and canyons. Only two kilometers away from the village is Peña Colorada, home to pre-colonial ornate petroglyphs.
Where to stay: The Parador Viña de Pereira, a tasteful bed & breakfast in Villa Abecia is the perfect jumping off point. Owner Ana Gabriela Gómez Arancibia can also arrange lunch or dinner if booked ahead of time. Simple lunch and dinner meals must also be booked ahead at Cepas de mi Abuelo, El Gilgal, and Hacienda Izuma. From the Parador, you can also easily get to the natural pools by the river, so pack your swimsuit.
Samaipata
A weekend getaway from Santa Cruz
A three-hour drive from Santa Cruz, Samaipata is the last wine growing region in Bolivia before you reach the Amazon rainforest. The profile of the historic village is being raised thanks to some important enological and culinary contributions. Luis Guzmán from Wine Explorers particularly appreciates the region’s white wines, like the Pedro Ximenez, Torrontés, and Sauvignon Blanc varietals.
Established in 2007, Vinos 1750 is the oldest winery of the easternmost region. They just earned a Grand Gold Bacchus award for their 2019 cabernet sauvignon. Their informal eatery also offers pizzas, charcuterie, and cheese boards. A newer winery, Landsuá, focuses on natural wines, and are one of the few Bolivian wineries with an à la carte restaurant (great wine pairings are a given here).
Rural haute cuisine takes center stage at Casa Charo, which is competing with La Paz’s top restaurants. Chef Sofia Nogales’ carefully planned tasting menu focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients from the nearby valleys. The pairings highlight the breadth of Bolivian’s wines and spirits. Much like everything else in Samaipata, they only operate from Thursday to Sunday.
Beyond the wine in Samaipata: If a walk around the historic town isn’t enough exercise for you, consider heading out to the Bosque de los Helechos Gigantes (the giant fern forest) or going for a hike at the Codo de los Andes. VM Elite can arrange transport in conjunction with your wine tours here, too.
Where to stay: Samaipata offers a variety of places to stay from El Pueblito boutique hotel, conveniently located near 1750, to the highly sought after Samaipata Glamping. Alternatively, check out Ipora with its breathtaking views of the Samaipata Fort, built by the Tiahuanaco tribe, pre-dating the Inca establishments in Cuzco.
While modern wine tourism is still a nascent industry in Bolivia, enophiles looking for unique experiences will be rewarded. From endemic grape varietals like the Vischoqueña and wine makers that take time to converse with visitors, not to mention impressive backdrops, exploring Bolivian wine country offers singular opportunities—if you’re willing to do a little extra work to get there.
