During the final leg of A/W 2023 fashion week in Paris, it became apparent that sheer, skin-baring looks were dominating the runways. I started to think about the idea of ‘less is more’ while planning our spring/summer photo shoot—and knew that finding a location that matched this aesthetic would be key. Fashion is about storytelling, and Cape Verde, off the coast of West Africa, felt like the perfect fit with its unique topography: cinematic dunes, endless white sand beaches, and rich volcanic areas. I fell in love with the juxtaposition of the light clothes against these epic and otherworldly backdrops.
The unforgettable shooting location
Location-scouting a country before you arrive is exciting, surprising, and challenging. You can’t expect everywhere to look like it does in photographs, no matter how many deep dives you take into a place or region—this is particularly true when it comes to the color of the landscapes, the perspective of things, and how easy it is to get there. (And, of course, everything always looks better in sunshine and blue skies, but that’s out of everyone’s hands.) Out of all of the islands in the archipelago, we landed on Boa Vista due, home to the Viana Desert and moon-like terrain.
A tricky shot the photographer pulled off
No matter where you are in the world, it’s hard to avoid a trail of camera-wielding folk seeking secret spots and breathtaking sunrises—even at 4 a.m. So we drove off-road, riding across the island’s rocky inclines, clinging onto the internal sides of our 4×4 van, until we found a desolate, red mud flat to shoot a white satin Gucci look. This was followed by a dramatic black rock, not too far out to sea and the perfect spot for our model, Giselle, to perch in a Loewe bustier dress as the waves crashed around her. How we pulled off the shot? The photographer, Daniel Benson, stood precariously on a stepladder, wobbling on the rocks amidst ocean spray.
Unexpected challenges
Going off-road in search of the best locations means zero phone signal, so we were almost entirely uncontactable for a vast proportion of the three days. To feel so disconnected was liberating and joyous. (The town had a seven-hour power cut on the second night, so everything was plunged into darkness—making for an additional adventure.) Another unanticipated element? The wind. Shooting on dunes with sideways wind is challenging for the camera equipment, not to mention the clothes.
The most memorable moment
We shot some of the very best and most stylish runway looks—Chanel, Gucci, Loewe, and Louis Vuitton, among others—with Giselle carrying them off with seriously chic aplomb. Still, there was one complex garment we struggled to style her in, requiring three people, a YouTube video, and a lot of photo references to get it right. There is nothing like a fashion puzzle to get you all working tightly together.
