Just off Piazza Maggiore, Bologna’s central square, the Quadrilatero seduces all of the senses. Grocers deal out chunks of nutty, rich Parmigiano Reggiano cheese as samples to discerning shoppers, along with razor-thin slices of prosciutto di Parma that melt on the tongue. Wine bars pour effervescent glasses of local pignoletto wine alongside boards of warm focaccia, lightly salty-herby mortadella, and balsamic so delectable it tastes closer to dark-chocolate syrup than vinegar.
These flavors have been central to Bologna’s food heritage since the Middle Ages, when the Quadrilatero’s first purveyors opened shops. Today’s culinary spread is the 21st-century version of the same time-tested favorites that many consider to be Italy’s greatest foods, from savory cheeses and cured meats, to tortellini, ragú Bolognese, and lasagna (whose original 13th-century recipe is archived at the Bologna Chamber of Commerce.)
But food is just one aspect of beguiling Bologna, the central-Italian hub with nicknames alluding to its red bricks and left-leaning politics (La Rossa), its iconic towers (La Turrita), its food (La Grassa, the fat one), and its thousand-year-old university (La Dotta, the erudite). There is also an air of modernity here, owing to the youthful college-town vibes that keep community and culture at the forefront of life through bars, music, film, fine arts, and street art.
Via these storied streets, many of them covered by the city’s iconic porticoes, travelers can imagine life as it was centuries ago even as they sip spritzes and attend film and art openings. And while Rome, Venice, Milan, Florence, and other fantastic Italian destinations remained the focus of more than 75 million visitors to Italy last year, visiting less-touristed Bologna is a special delight.
An added bonus is that Bologna is a hub city for Italy’s stellar train and highway network, and central inside the Emilia-Romagna region. So travelers can zip in from most big cities, and add in some of the regional sights like Parma, Modena (famous for the Ferrari Museum and other marvelous history), and coastal Rimini.
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