My own first visit was a quick pre-dinner pop-in—though the intimacy, warmth, and undeniable depth of community in the space (not to mention a spot-on pairing of sparkling natural wine, mortadella, and olives marinated with fennel pollen) immediately had me second guessing my evening plans. Now, I make it a point to stop in whenever I come through Los Angeles—and stay for the entire night.
Because local or visiting, familiar face or new, The Ruby Fruit’s warm, open hospitality extends to everyone who steps foot into the small, colorful space. The atmosphere—with a smattering of cheeky, butt-shaped flower pots, a sign on the bathroom door that reads NO TERFs, and the warmth and attention of the staff—all serve to bring The Ruby Fruit’s ethos to life.“I never go in and don’t see an owner,” Toboni says. “The vibe is really welcoming.”
When Carmella Martinique Bonadio moved from Washington, DC, to Los Angeles last summer, she messaged The Ruby Fruit on Instagram about an event she was interested in joining. She ended up not being able to make it that night—but when she walked in nearly three weeks later, she was immediately recognized, called by name, and poured a welcome drink. “Now I live right down the street and I go there all the time,” Martinique Bonadio says. Her go-to: a glass of sparkling rosé and the popcorn chicken basket (made with sansho pepper, served with fries, and which can also be made vegan).
“We try to talk to everyone,” Herbkersman says. “The Ruby Fruit is so small that you actually can do that.” At less than 500 very intimate square feet, the design focuses on using every inch: shared terrazzo counters and narrow ledges tucked into corners, stools that stack and can be used for sitting or as a table—paired with an accommodating crowd that is happy to spill outside when the space hits capacity.
It’s the combination of the sense of community—as well as the many events at The Ruby Fruit—that brings Martinique Bonadio back again and again. “A friend of mine hosts an event through the Ruby Fruit every Tuesday called TRANScendent Tuesdays and it’s a gender-expansive sort of mixer,” she says. “Mara and Emily making that effort has been monumental to the inclusivity of transgender sapphic identifying people.” Martinique Bonadio often also stops by for Queereoke, hosted by Chynna Mac, or Verse4Verse Poetry, a queer open mic led by Karla Lamb.
The wide range of events allows The Ruby Fruit to reach a wider audience. “After we opened The Ruby Fruit, we quickly learned that we had to function as not just a restaurant but a community space,” Herbkersman says. “The queer community is full of diversity and nuance. We want to create a little bit of space for everyone to feel at home.”
If you’re from out of town, The Ruby Fruit is an ideal first stop, either for the night or straight from the airport. “It’s been amazing to witness so many people coming in and being like, This was my literal first stop from LAX,” Bielagus says.
Adds Herbkersman, “When we opened, we didn’t quite understand that the appeal for this was going to reach beyond our community.”
That reach and the collective joy found day after day at The Ruby Fruit is palpable whether you come in with your computer in the morning or solo at night; whether you’re behind or in front of the bar. “At this point, this is my life’s work and definitely my greatest accomplishment of my life,” says Herbkersman.
