When Los Angeles–based designer Clare Vivier began decorating the 19th-century house she’d bought in her husband’s hometown of Saint-Calais, in France‘s Loire Valley, she had a particular aesthetic in mind. “I love color and patterns but wanted something peaceful, so the intention was to create a dialogue between those two things,” she says. She wanted the house to have a blend of contemporary pieces, antiques, and textiles from heritage maisons to create a space that, much like her namesake handbag and fashion label, channeled both California fun and French sophistication. She also knew that she wanted her longtime friend Kate Berry, a designer and creative director, to help her make it happen.
So this past May, the pair, along with Vivier’s husband, Thierry, hit the road from Saint-Calais and ventured south to an area of Provence renowned for its artisanal wares and plethora of secondhand designer furnishings and textiles. “This is where the vendors at Paris‘s flea markets shop then sell at higher prices in Paris,” says Berry. During a week exploring the area, they combed the flea markets of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the expert antique brokers in Arles, and the collections at designer houses in pocket-size villages like Vallabrègues. In addition to the stash of fantastic one-off finds, there’s the sense of community here you don’t find in places like Paris.
“We’d wander into these shops and the owners would say, ‘You like these pots? You need to go check out my neighbor—he has even more!’” says Vivier. “It never feels transactional. These owners want to talk about you and know what you are doing.” They got tips from their well-connected friends, including Tony Freund, of the editorial marketplace 1stdibs; Xavier Donnelly, of architecture and hospitality firm Ash NYC; and interior designer Rodman Primack. But they kept the schedule loose in order to, as Berry says, “leave room for discovery.”
Discovery came easy. Beyond the brocanting, the region brims with tiny medieval villages and larger towns. Many have narrow roads that are better explored by foot. “If you get out of the car in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, you will inevitably wander into these tiny courtyards where you will find 10 or so different shops with different antiques,” says Berry. “You would totally miss them if you stayed in a car.” This is not the touristy South of France, known for its glitz and excess. This area is quieter, filled with independent shops and restaurants, teeming with clear rivers. Fewer American accents can be heard. It is in full bloom throughout the spring and summer, with trees bursting with figs and the scents of roses and night-blooming jasmine filling the air. “It felt a little like California, actually,” says Vivier.
Where to eat
Arles restaurant Inari is run by Cèline Pham, formerly of perennial Paris hot spot Septime, and her wife, Agathe, in a building from the 13th century. It serves a seasonal menu—the local asparagus with chèvre and edible flowers is a standout—and great natural wines. “The portions here were so perfect!” says Vivier. Beloved spot Le Jardin du Quai is in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and does regional fare with a twist, including lobster ravioli served with seafood foam on a bed of English peas. Jour de Fête, a favorite of Vivier’s, put the no-stoplight town of Valennes on the map, thanks to fresh local dishes served up by owner Raphaëlle Yvon-Araud, who uses produce from her own farm.
Where to shop
Atelier Vime is a historic basket maison in the village of Vallabrègues. It has been brought back to life by couple Anthony Watson and Benoît Rauzy, who discovered that their home had been the headquarters of a rattan business. In 2018, with help from Paris-based designer Raphäelle Hanley, they began specializing in vintage rattan and designs made by local wicker artisans. Vivier was turned on to antiques spot 50 Cinquante and its charming co-owner Thibaud Ayasse by a designer friend. (“He was so sweet and knowledgeable,” says Berry.) This shop in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue sells sculptures, light fixtures, and more.
One of the region’s largest markets, Villeneuve-Lès-Avignon Flea Market, is best known for furnishings and wicker. Vivier and Berry purchased a pair of tan upholstered living room chairs from a vendor named Damian, who took care of all the delivery too. The market also has vendors selling seafood and wine, which they patronized during their shopping breaks. In L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, David Wamin sells Art Deco furnishings and light fixtures at Dav’ Antique —his diminutive yellow-painted storefront, with a selection of large pots and ceramics.
Grègoire Courtin is a renowned finder and collector of rare objets. His general-store-cum-museum, Maison Courtin, in the town of La Chartre-sur-le-Loir features hats, cars, and medical supplies. Nearby, he runs an Airbnb with his wife inside a former hardware store, serving excellent breakfasts in an old army tent. JL Moriad gallery at L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has top designers at a steal. “We found a Gae Aulenti chair for $1,000—anywhere else it would be five times that,” says Vivier. In the small village of La Chartre-sur-le-Loir, the duo sourced green folding chairs by Jacques Hitier and lamps from owner Cristophe Lebeslour at La Chose Antiquités. The dealer Pascal Pieussergues lives walking distance from the Viviers’ place in Saint-Calais, DamDimDom. In his three-story showroom, Clare and Kate found ceramics, coffee tables, leather benches, and baskets.
This article appeared in the September/October 2024 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
