Don Nguyen, who is working toward a permanent location for Khói, says he’s been pleasantly surprised to see Houstonians of all types embracing his take on phở. It’s a long way, he says, from the days of being that lonely Vietnamese kid with the smelly lunch.
“It’s so indicative of Houston, so indicative of Texas,” he says of Khói. “There’s dudes with cowboy hats, but there’s also metalheads. There’s African Americans, Latinos, Asians, and the LGBTQIA+ community. It’s a really cool environment where everybody can come and feel safe. America is so polarized, but at least we can find some common ground.”
Where to try Viet-Texan and Vietnamese food in Houston
Operating out of a Phillips 66 gas station in Northwest Houston, Brisket & Rice serves its namesake dish—smoked brisket over white rice—along with baked potato salads and nui xào bò, or Vietnamese macaroni noodles with beef.
Set in the Sawyer Heights area, Xin Chào (which translates to “hello”) brings together the talents of chefs Tony Nguyen and Christine Ha. The menu spotlights a second-generation approach to both Vietnamese and Texan cuisine, with dishes like Viet-Cajun oysters, smoked duck salad, and buttermilk fried chicken coated in pandan rice flakes.
After years as a beloved pop-up, Blood Bros. opened in a brick-and-mortar space on Bellaire Boulevard—a main thoroughfare that also runs through Houston’s Asiatown neighborhood. On the menu, find traditional Texas ’cue presented in Vietnamese staples, like a smoked turkey banh mi sandwich and chow fun rice noodles with gai lan, or Chinese broccoli, and brisket.
A longstanding pop-up with an eye on a permanent location, Khói applies Texas smoke and beef to lighter, more aromatic Vietnamese dishes such as phở and other noodle soups. Owner Don Nguyen frequently dabbles outside of Texan barbecue traditions, looking to the Carolinas for whole hog cooking and sausage making—much of it with a Southeast Asian bent. Dishes and monthly dates change regularly, so check Instagram for the latest news.
A casual, modern Vietnamese restaurant, Dinette offers several Viet-Texan-leaning crowd pleasers like pandan-fried okra and honey-and-fish sauce glazed wings. The Heights kitchen also takes on Viet-Tex-Mex with brisket phở nachos and a reimagining of the Vietnamese bánh xèo turmeric crepe as a taco.
There’s no real fusion here: it’s straightforward and traditional. But what is undeniably Texan is the fast casual format and the drive-through (Houston is one of America’s most car-dependent cities). Prepared Chipotle-style in under three minutes, food comes with a choice of char-grilled meat served in a rice paper wrap, over rice, or over noodles with herbs and sauces.
Dan Q. Dao is a culture writer who splits his time between Saigon and New York City. Born in Houston to Vietnamese refugees, Dan’s work often examines food, media, and art from a diasporic perspective. His work can be found in the New York Times, Condé Nast Traveler, Vice, and more.
