Best known in Phnom Penh as Chef Nak, Rotanak Ros has spent over a decade traveling around Cambodia, recovering, preserving, and spotlighting traditional Khmer recipes. The richness of the region’s cuisine, which she says comprises “at least a thousand dishes” from over a thousand years of history, collides in one place: her hometown of Phnom Penh (say it: “pa-nom penn”). “This is not just the hub for art or culture,” says Ros. “This is the place where everyone comes for a better life—and when they come from different parts of Cambodia, they bring their food.” On top of hosting market tours, cooking classes, and food-focused homestays for travelers, she also curates the Khmer menu at the Rosewood Phnom Penh‘s Brasserie Louis. Still, she makes the most of her days off at her favorite spots to eat, drink, and relax in the cradle of Khmer cuisine.
Central Market
Ros likes to start her day at the city’s main market, with breakfast from the food court or the surrounding street vendors. “You’ll find a reflection of what Cambodians eat every day,” she says, “from grilled pork on rice with sweet-and-sour dipping sauce to nom banh jok—fresh rice noodles accompanied by crunchy seasonal vegetables.” She’s also a fan of crispy banh chao crepes made with rice flour and coconut butter and stuffed with pork belly.
Kravanh
“Kravanh has made an effort to preserve and uplift Cambodian cuisine,” says Ros. It’s the type of restaurant high-ranking government officials will take visitors to show off the country’s culinary prowess. Ros has been eating here since before she became a chef: “I love their amok, which has a thick, creamy lemongrass paste and coconut milk.” This signature Cambodian dish is usually made with whitefish wrapped in a banana leaf, but Ros always goes for the version with snails, a common protein in Khmer cuisine.
Villa 5
At Villa 5, chef Sao Sopheak, who hails from Siem Reap, puts a contemporary spin on traditional Khmer flavors. “He’s very clever and creative,” says Ros. A standout for her is the marinated sun-dried fish served with seasonal fruit, like watermelon or ripe mango. “The fish is so salty, but the sweetness of the fruit balances the whole thing.”
Sora
“The view of the city from Sora? Oh, my God.” Ros loves catching sunsets over the capital with a cocktail in hand at this bar perched on the 37th floor of the Rosewood Phnom Penh. She sometimes goes off menu, asking the bartender for Cambodian rum, passion fruit, and a dash of star anise, shaken—no sugar required.
Nika’s Seeing Hands Massage Therapy Center
Between meals and shopping for ingredients, Ros relaxes with a massage. “At Nika’s, the masseuses are blind, and they are really skillful,” says Ros. “They’ve been fixing me for years now.” The sole offering at Nika is a traditional Khmer massage, a centuries-old technique incorporating stretching and pressure points for a restorative experience. “They know what they’re doing, and I like to support their community.”
This article appeared in the March 2024 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
