Vernazza and Manarola are often considered the prima donnas of Cinque Terre, but Monterosso al Mare wins for personality, with the most to offer visitors from where to bed down to local wining and family-run dining. Sleeping in a B&B or family-run hotel is undoubtedly the best way to live like a local. High above the clamor of Monterosso’s village life, Casa di Andrea oozes with charm and garden views. Centrally located 3-star Hotel la Colonnina boasts renovated rooms and a roof deck while 4-star Porto Roca high on the bluff offers the most sophisticated lodging, with an infinity pool and refined restaurant included. For a real dose of rural life dotted by olive trees and local produce, Agriturismo Missanega reachable by car, is the place to call home. The only 5-star address, Grand Hotel Portovenere isn’t exactly part of the Cinque Terre, but it’s close enough.
On the food front, family-run gastronomic Ristorante Miky has been impressing its guests since 1980, while offshoot La Cantina di Miky serves up innovative local fare in a more casual seaside setting. In Monterosso’s old town, Il Casello concocts savory Ligurian specialties the likes of stuffed anchovies and trofie al pesto. There’s no more scenic spot for dinner or an aperitivo than Torre Aurora named for the 16th-century tower it inhabits. A few steps away, Ristorante L’Ancora della Tortuga vies for the views with its sweeping outdoor terrace and cliffside dining. Follow the classical music to Enoteca da Eliseo for a sampling of regional wines or head to Enoteca Internazionale and pair vino with gourmet bruschetta at the village’s oldest wine shop. If you’re feeling adventurous, just west of Monterosso, Casino in the year-round town of Levanto makes for a perfect dinner or drink stop, and can be reached by train or on foot. For some of the best coastline views, brave the two-hour hike.
Each of the five villages merits a wander through the historic center and up along the tangle of paths that lead to clandestine eateries. In Vernazza, it’s Ittiturismo Pirasca overlooking the variegated landscape, and long-standing Ristorante Belforte nestled into the bluff that offers both appetizing views and dishes. In Corniglia, the smallest of the hilltop villages and also the least visited, Ittiturismo SP4488 makes the trek up the nearly 400 steps well worth it. A fast favorite for anyone who discovers this cliffside haunt, Trattoria dal Billy is reason enough to plot a trip to Manarola. When it comes to fine dining Ligurian style, the casually chic Rio Bistrot in Riomaggiore certainly doesn’t disappoint.
Regardless of when you decide to venture to Cinque Terre, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the authenticity and charm of these five animated villages. Just give yourself more than three days to enjoy morning cappuccinos, cannoli (the Ligurian variety), long ambles, and maybe even a game of bocce with the locals.
