Passport photos are important—by government mandate, it’s the image that unequivocally declares “this is my face.” And while Anna Wintour gets Mario Testino to shoot hers, those of us perched awkwardly atop plastic swivel seats in busy pharmacies have to do much more than just sit still to get a worthy photo. Don’t worry: There are some insider tricks to ensure the results are as flattering as they can be. So roll back those shoulders (it elongates the neck), and get ready for that snapshot countdown with a little help from the experts.
Ditch the glow
“This is probably the only instance where glow is the enemy,” says makeup artist Lan Nguyen-Grealis. “While highlighters and shimmers should be avoided, brightening powders, especially under the eyes, are great for cheating good lighting.” If you’re using a phone, the combination of an HD camera and direct lighting can amplify texture—use a blurring primer to create a smooth canvas rather than opting for blanket coverage. Skip the sunscreen (but only for the picture) as SPF and flash photography don’t tend to mix.
Boost your color
This is not the time to skimp on color. “A soft cream blush will help reinstate bone structure and a healthy tone to the skin, both of which tend to get washed out with direct lighting—especially with the flash of a photo booth,” says Nguyen-Grealis. “Enhance lips with a stain or tinted balm that matches the natural tone of the lips for definition that doesn’t look obviously makeup-y.”
Add definition
“Focus on creating symmetry by subtly defining your eyes with kohl eyeliner inside the top waterline and adding a sweep of mascara,” says Nguyen-Grealis. Brows also add structure to the face, but think balanced rather than bulky: “Instead of using pencils and shadows, simply brush up using a fiber brow gel that gives the illusion of a fuller brow without dominating the face.”
Consider the light
“Think about bathing yourself in light,” says photographer Charisse Kenion. “When it comes to choosing the required light-colored background, stick with off-white or creamy tones that won’t show up too yellow and make you look either ill or too warm. Also avoid any grey tones because they can make you appear tired and add extra shadows.” Looking to brighten up your skin for the photo? “A simple trick anyone can do is to place a white piece of card on your lap to reflect a bit of light up under the chin and illuminate the face,” adds David Bate, Professor of Photography at the University of Westminster. “If using your phone or a camera at home, placing a white sheet over the window can dramatically soften the light and improve the look of a face.”
Smize for the camera
“The difficulty with passport photos is that you’re not allowed to smile,” says Ruth Crilly, a professional model and content creator at A Model Recommends. The fashion industry has mastered the art of perfecting that stylishly miserable look, so take your cues from the pros. “To avoid looking hard and angry, keep your mouth closed but your jaw loose to create just the right amount of space to give some nice shape to the face. If it’s easier, press your tongue to the roof of your closed mouth behind your teeth—it’ll have the same sort of effect. It can be helpful to tip your chin towards your chest and look down before raising your face slightly just before the shot to ensure you look animated rather than staring murderously into the lens.”
Upgrade your kit
“Unless you’re planning on creating some travel vlogs, you don’t really want to spend your entire travel budget on a camera to take a passport picture—and there’s really no need as phone cameras tend to be pretty good these days,” says Kenion. As tempting as it may be to slap a “Paris” Instagram filter over the top of your headshot, passport pictures have to remain totally unedited, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t get a little techie to eke out the best result. Sometimes it pays to delve a little deeper into your phone settings. Always start with portrait mode—this switches the primary camera to the telephoto camera, which has a higher zoom and simulates the look of portraits taken with a DSLR camera. Then, it’s time to get creative with exposure, focus, and gridlines to balance your shot. Gridlines are one of the easiest ways to improve your portrait; simply go to your phone’s settings and switch it on in the camera app. “TikToker Alix Earle set the internet alight when she shared that she uses a Newmowa LED Video light that clips to her phone. I bought one too and it’s brilliant for illuminating the entire face with bright light,” Kenion adds.
