Every night, 1,800 candles and lanterns send shadows dancing across the walls of Dar Tantora The House Hotel, casting the interiors of this extraordinary 30-room property in soft shades of gold. Across the road from a thriving oasis, in the heart of AlUla’s Old Town, Dar Tantora inhabits a labyrinthine cluster of mud-brick and stone houses abandoned in the late 20th century. Their restoration—and subsequent conversion into a hotel—was led by Egyptian architect Shahira Fahmy, whom Phaidon describes as one of the premier “architects building the Arab future.”
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Wreathed in shades of ochre, sienna, and umber, the hotel feels inextricably linked to its natural environment and the local community—both past and present. Poufs and rugs are spun from natural fibers, wooden doors are rough and hand-painted. The overplayed hallmarks of contemporary luxury design are noticeably absent: no glass doors, no hyper-polished woods, no perfect 90-degree angles. Instead, doors to guest rooms are immense pieces of lumber, carved with intricate patterns; floors are covered with ropey jute, layered with vivid red and oxblood rugs. Organic shapes and textures abound, from the grit of the mud-brick walls to the timber beams on the reed-covered ceilings. It’s like entering a museum, but one you can live and sleep in.
My stay starts with a welcome ceremony designed to engage all the senses. I’m presented with a cool towel, a plate of dates, a cup of freshly prepared Arabic coffee and an array of fragrant incense; I’m invited to pick one to be burned in my guest room at turndown. The experience feels genuine and immersive, without being put-on or costumey. Rooms are divided into four categories: Dar Al Luban is the entry-level; Dar Al Bukhour rooms have a lounge area; Dar Al Hareer rooms have both a lounge and a terrace with daybeds; and Dar Al Oud suites have two bedrooms. Each room’s layout is unique, but none have air conditioning, relying instead on ceiling fans and an age-old regional design tradition of cross-ventilation to ensure sufficient airflow. There are no electrical lights in rooms, save for sconces by the bathroom mirrors, and limited electrical lighting in public spaces. Instead, in the evenings, those candles and lanterns burn in every nook and cranny, suspending the space in a romantic glow. Everything is designed to encourage maximum immersion in this historic setting, although there is reliable WiFi across the property, so you can stay in touch with your butler via WhatsApp.
