It’s just a 15-minute drive from downtown Niseko, yet Shiguchi offers a deeply peaceful escape from the crowds, with sweeping vistas across a pristine forested valley. Beyond spending all day in one of its rock tubs, there’s plenty to do, particularly at Somoza, the restaurant, gallery, and shop. There, guests can partake in traditional tea ceremonies, explore on-site galleries, and pick up Hokkaido crafts and artworks, including organic ceramics by Manabu Kochi.
Where to see art
Kiyoe Hosokawa, a well-respected figure in Hokkaido’s modern art world, represents a growing number of practitioners across mediums, from painting and calligraphy to sculpture and textiles. Her exhibitions, often held at the Arishima Takeo Memorial Museum, showcase emerging young talents and Ainu artists as well as deeply established government-designated Japanese Living National Treasures. Hosokawa’s thoughtfully curated show of calligraphic artwork by Yoko Arano, whom she represents, was on display there during my visit.
Where to explore Ainu culture
A modern ryokan set on the shores of Lake Poroto, in southwestern Hokkaido, Hoshino Resorts KAI Poroto is deeply rooted in Ainu culture, with 42 guest rooms that riff on traditional dwellings. Soaking in its bathhouses is a highlight, as are the exquisite Ainu-inspired dinners; think boat-shaped food displays and delicious crab-filled bouillabaisse hot pots. Next door, the Upopoy National Ainu Museum includes a re-created village, a high-tech museum, and activities like cooking and archery. A few hours away, the Nibutani Ainu Culture Museum offers an intimate, old-school display of daily Ainu artifacts.
How to do it
I traveled with InsideJapan Tours, which can tailor tours across Hokkaido. The outfitter also offers a 12-night “Snowy Island” trip to Hokkaido, which includes three nights at Setsu Niseko and one at Hoshino Resorts KAI Poroto as well as stays in Sapporo and the far-flung village of Tsurui, famous for its red-crowned cranes, plus two nights in Tokyo at the start or conclusion of the trip.
This article appeared in the December 2023 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
