“Look at the snowdrift,” said Noksana. “The wind blows from west to east. Cross the drifts, and you can work out if you’re going north or south.” I gripped his waist tightly, feeling, in all this vastness, a confusing mix of bewilderment and privilege. I was in awe of this place and Noksana’s ease and resilience in the landscape.
On my last night in here, I experienced the northern lights again, in absolute, grateful peace, the greens leaping above my head. A scene like this shouldn’t be the only reason you visit. It’s a serious place, culturally, politically, climatically, logistically. You will do good by coming here; your journey will inject dollars into the Indigenous economy. Most importantly, you will have a chance to listen to people from whom we all have so much to learn.
How to do it
As part of its Stories of Canada set of trips, Entrée Destinations offers eight-night Winter in the Northwest Territories tours, starting and ending in Yellowknife, from February through April. Travelers will meet with local communities and engage in activities including snowmobiling, skiing, and northern lights excursions. Trip costs include internal flights, accommodations, guides, and most meals.
Ethical travel
Keith Henry, president and CEO of Indigenous Tourism Association of Canada and president of the BC Métis Federation, share how to respectfully interact with Indigenous communities.
Do: Ask about a community’s true history and the impact of colonization and be prepared to listen. However, be sensitive if individuals choose not to engage.
Don’t: Arrive with preconceived notions. Indigenous people aren’t homogeneous and their lifestyles are often misrepresented in TV and film.
Do: Inform communities of any previous interactions with other Indigenous people. This will show that you’re invested and engaged.
Don’t: Be afraid to ask if it’s okay to participate in ceremonies, meals, and other rituals the community may share with you.
Do: Support the communities by purchasing food, crafts, and other items from local entrepreneurs.
Don’t: Take photos without spending some time among the community beforehand. Demonstrate a desire to be meaningfully engaged and then ask if photos are okay.
This article appeared in the March 2024 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
