On another tiny islet, aptly named Lemur Island, or Nosy Komba, lies another iteration of a tropical idyll: Tsara Komba. Set on the side of an extinct volcano, off the less rainy northwestern coast of Madagascar, this little eight-room ecolodge was built by a Frenchman two decades ago and has recently been taken over by the sea-and-safari specialist Time + Tide, which also owns the smart retreat Miavana on the northeastern tip of the island. The lush terraced gardens, full of glossy, iridescent sunbirds darting amid exotic flowers, are the best place to admire the white sails of a traditional dugout dhow turning tangerine in the setting sun.
It’s a place so beloved of Madagascar aficionados that many of the guests sunning themselves under the shaggy beach umbrellas or on the palm-fringed ocean deck return year after year to its wood and thatch villas. Key members of the 40-strong multitalented staff include Tina Hary, a Malagasy chef known for his ginger-tinged ceviches and rich octopus salads, and the adored lodge manager, Nava Rabe, who sprinkles joy as she moves calmly between guests. Part of the warmth and community feel can be explained by the fact that Tsara Komba built a village next door and has hugely improved the residents’ lives. Villagers work at the hotel and catch the (strictly monitored, deep-sea) fish served there. The eco-lodge brings in much-needed cash to fund national parks including the Lokobe forest reserve, full of energetic lemurs, camouflaging geckos and nail-sized chameleons. Tourist money also aids the Ambohibe Turtle Reserve, where I swam with the reptiles, and the island of Tanikely, where I snorkeled amid clouds of rainbow-hued fish (and, sadly, the badly bleached coral now common along the East African coast). Lodges such as these, where the rate per night tops the Madagascar GDP per capita, are lifelines for local communities.
I leave here glowing effortlessly from the overabundant but nutritious food, tropical air and sea – and long nights of rest untroubled by tech. When, hopefully in 2025, more private air charters take to the skies, linking remote spots such as these, Madagascar will be the hottest beach spot on the continent for smart travelers. “It’s like Bali 40 years ago,” proclaims Kjellgren. And having visited 150 countries, and more than 2,000 hotels, he would know.
Scott Dunn offers a nine-night Madagascar itinerary from $7,675 per person, with four nights each at Voaara and Tsara Komba, full board, and a night at Maison Gallieni, B&B, plus international and domestic flights and transfers; a version of this story originally appeared on Condé Nast Traveller UK.
