Walking through the Marrakech medina means being bowled over (metaphorically and, sometimes, physically) by the swirling scent of spices and grilled meat, audible haggling between ceramics dealers and tourists, the clip clopping of donkeys pulling carts, and the incoming whoosh of a moped zipping along by. It’s chaotic and magical. But much of the old city’s charm also lies just out of sight, behind high, red clay walls where the city’s riads—traditional homes and guesthouses known for lush, often ornately-tiled interior courtyards—have stood for centuries.
This past fall, I spent a few days in Marrakech at one such riad, set deep within a rabbit warren of narrow streets knotted together in the heart of the medina. The intense summer heat was beginning to subside, but days were still hitting the nineties, which meant that the shade of a riad’s softly drooping palm trees and the option of a small shared swimming pool (a common perk at these kinds of homes) felt like essential features that I would thank myself for later. Riad El Ayadi’s setup seemed particularly serene, with ample lounge areas scattered with local textiles and embroidered pillows, tranquil inner balconies lining each story, and a turquoise-tiled plunge pool. Better still, the photos suggested it was a property filled with character: each jewel box-style room was stocked with antiquities, art, ceramics, and textiles sourced from within the medina. After scrolling through Airbnb on my phone during a lunch break, I was quickly seduced and hit book.
Once we arrived in Marrakech, it soon became apparent that Riad El Ayadi’s charisma begins before you’ve set foot inside the house, courtesy of Yasyn, who is on hand to check guests in and—due to how easy it is to get lost in the 11th-century medina—meet them at the walled city’s entrance and guide them to the riad (cars aren’t allowed inside the medina). Even with Google Maps, I wouldn’t have found the place myself: The riad sits behind a nondescript door on a narrow, quiet back alley where there are more cats than humans, and the odd echo of hidden voices is the only signal that there is more here than meets the eye—a stark contrast to the freneticism just a few twists and turns away.
Like most riads, this one functions as a guesthouse rather than a private home to take over (although theoretically, you could book out all the rooms and feel like you own the place), meaning there’s a chance you’ll run into one or two other guests wafting in and out through the day. For us, though, that wasn’t the case, meaning we had all of the common spaces, roof terrace, and pool to ourselves in addition to a suite: a forest-green gem of a space with black and white photography hanging on the walls, well-restored wooden window shutters to block out the heat, a black-lacquered fireplace for the winter months, and classic, patterned berber rugs covering the stone floors. A morning highlight was having breakfast cooked for us (available to all guests) in the beautifully done-up dining room and kitchen, which was accented with Moroccan lanterns hanging from the ceiling, simple clay pots dotting the shelves, an array of silver tea sets, and the occasional peacock feather; freshly-squeezed juice, stacks of beghrir (Moroccan-style pancakes), an assortment of local jams, and slices of nectarine served in dark green, palm-sized bowls were served. It felt like a meditative moment before being absorbed into the exuberance of this famous red city for the day.
As for the location, all of the reasons you’re visiting the Marrakech medina are within walking distance—UNESCO-rated sites like the ornate, 14th-century Islamic school Medersa Ben Youssef, tranquil botanical garden Le Jardin Secret, and chic hotels like IZZA that warrant a rooftop cocktail, not to mention the many labyrinthine alleyways stocked with piles of rugs, textiles, ceramics, and glassware I quickly found myself honing my haggling skills over. A short cab ride from outside the medina will take you to Jardin Majorelle and the Museé Yves Saint Laurent, and buzzy new(ish) arrivals like women-owned Sahbi Sahbi for dinner, and Petanque Social Club for drinks. And then, of course, you get to return to your very own slice of riad life, where you can watch the sun set over the red clay rooftops and entertain the idea of an evening dip in the palm fringed pool, just like we did.
