This is part of Off Season Italy, a collection of guides highlighting the year-round appeal of Italy’s most popular destinations, courtesy of our favorite local tastemakers. Read more here.
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Taormina, on Sicily’s west coast, is one of Italy’s most sought-after summertime resort towns. But for tattoo artist and painter Alessandro Florio, it’s simply home. The town’s tight lanes and vivid natural environs have long influenced his work, maybe more so in the cooler months than during any other time of year: “For us natives, winter is when we are able to do what the tourists do all summer,” he says. Read on for his take on the dishes to try, the sites to explore, and the road trips around the region that make the offseason the best time to be there.
What time of year do you think Taormina shines?
Taormina is incredible during November, December, and January. Bars, restaurants, and ateliers are still open, but with fewer guests, they’re actually pleasant. In the summer months, I avoid Corso (Corso Umberto, the town’s main street) because it’s too crowded. But during winter, I enjoy walking around, sitting with a coffee, and admiring the Baroque architecture that lines the road.
Christmas, when I was younger, was magical because we’d hang around the village streets all day long, carefree—just thinking about it makes me nostalgic. Even now, the town is alive and welcoming during this festive period, and it feels like it belongs only to us. For me, as a painter, this atmosphere is ideal and inspiring.
Who do the locals share the streets with at this time?
It would be wrong to say that there are no non-natives, as I call them, around. People from all over the world have homes here, and they often avoid high season and stay longer during other parts of the year. They love mingling with us natives, and we’ve formed a tight community. We run into each other on the street, chit-chat, and meet for aperitivi or a meal. In winter, the pace slows down. I often visit friends in their studios, or they drop by mine while I’m working. We exchange ideas and speak in dialect.
Where do you find yourself dining most often during this off-season time?
I love dining at Nunziatina’s, a retro-looking restaurant decorated with vintage armchairs, lamps, and pillows. For me, choosing a restaurant goes beyond eating well—it must also be a nice place. My eyes are always seeking strange and fascinating things, and I find them there.
Is there a specific dish you associate with this time of year?
Osteria da Rita is a typical Sicilian family-run restaurant in the historic center. It’s simple but has substance. I always order the same dish: spaghetti with sun-dried tomatoes, pecorino cheese, toasted breadcrumbs, and anchovies. I’m addicted to it.
