This is part of Off Season Italy, a collection of guides highlighting the year-round appeal of Italy’s most popular destinations, courtesy of our favorite local tastemakers. Read more here.
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“I like to call those who go to Puglia in April, May, September, or October, intelligent travelers,” says style director and editor, Gianluca Longo. “These are the people who know how to appreciate a place—they are not there looking for the clubs.” The Pugliese native heads back home from London regularly throughout the year, and unlike the traveling masses, always avoids July and August. But he is quick to point out that the summertime appeals of the popular Salento and Alberobello areas of this Southwest Italian region—the ocean, the food, and good weather—stretch across the year. “Umbrellas are still on the beach at the beginning of November,” he says. “Linguini and clams are still served oceanside at lunch.”
Describe Puglia beyond the summer.
In April and May, the landscape is heaven. The beach and almond trees bloom and the wheat fields are golden. There are sweet spring breezes. But in September and October, Salento has this golden light at dusk. In the village of Muro Leccese, there is a wonderful piazza that is west-facing, which is built of this local endemic stone. The entire square—and the stone—comes to life at sunset.
Do you have a favorite local dish during autumn?
In Salento, it has to be ciceri e tria, which is a chickpea and tomato dish. I always get it in the village of Taviano at a place called Corte degli Aranci, which is adorable because it is in a courtyard inside an old palace with loads of orange trees.
Where else do you eat?
I always love Nonna Rosa in Muro Luccese. It is wonderful and authentic, and not at all pretentious. Even meat eaters go vegetarian here because it is all so fresh and delicious. My recommendation is that you never skip anything here with eggplant. You could also just dine on the antipasto, which includes fish, veggies, bread, and taralli (a wheat-based snack) from Puglia. It is down a tiny street and very family-oriented.
Another favorite is La Cutura. It is inside a botanical garden and a complete gem. I love the cactus garden. The food here is so fresh—it all comes from less than a mile away—and it’s wonderful because you can spend the afternoon in the gardens!
Are there any towns that really come alive during this time?
The feste padronale are like block parties for each of the little villages through September. It happens throughout Puglia and all the villagers come out for parties in the town squares, dancing la pizzica, a local dance.”
Any anecdotes that really sum up this region during this time of year?
For me, off-season travel is all about being able to actually connect with locals. One October, I was swimming in Porto Badisco, one of my favorite coves. I noticed these two older women with perfect hair on the shore with their foldable chairs. They were digging into a lasagna. I couldn’t resist chatting to them with the sneaky hope they would offer me a bite. And they did! Plus they had cold beers! We were there alone, just the three of us, chatting together for half the day. In the off-season, you have time to do this.
Beach aside, what do you check out once the tourists leave?
You have to go to Grottigle. It is like an open-air kiln with the best ceramics. It is so crowded in August but if you go in October you can actually speak to the ceramicists—Francesco Fassano, in particular, is great. There is a fantastic shop in Maritima called Tulsi selling local kaftans, sandals and crochets. My favorite restaurant is Taverna del Porto which is open all year round in Tricase Porto. We call Tricase the salon of Salento because it is so chic and beautiful. Have the fish. It is the best fish you will ever have in your life.
