Drawn to Antarctica again, I chose Viking Polaris as my home base in the Southern Ocean. And while the ship might not offer passengers a true polar plunge, it has the next best thing: a traditional Nordic spa with floor-to-ceiling windows, connecting you with the vast landscapes of the White Continent while you luxuriate. Bliss.
I found myself there regularly, cycling through the sauna, ice-cold bucket shower, steam room, and snow grotto—with a little relaxation in the warming cave or the hydrotherapy pool for good measure. But it was the badestamp that stole my heart, lingering in my mind long after I returned home. Tucked into a corner, the Nordic wood-sided hot tub sits in front of an open window, allowing you to breathe in the frosty air as it cools your rosy cheeks, steam swirling around you as it rises off the water. In the distance, you hear the calls of penguins, or the cannon-like boom of icebergs calving off glaciers, or, on occasion, pure silence. In the badestamp, I was balanced: hot and cold, yin and yang, separate from, yet connected to, Antarctica’s raw nature. —Stefanie Waldek
The crew makes the cruise
On a particularly languid morning, as a cyclone pushed us off course in French Polynesia and the captain steered us to the sunnier climes of the remote Marquesas, I made my way up to the bridge of Windstar’s Star Breeze. This was a first for me; Windstar is one of the few lines that allow passengers access to the command deck. The innumerable controls made me think of Star Trek. I was mindful not to disturb the officers up there working, but then one spotted dolphins on the horizon and shared his binoculars so I could see them. That broke the ice. We spent the next 20 minutes chatting about the officers’ jobs, being away from home, and more. I have been on dozens of sailings and know that it can sometimes feel as if there is a wall between guests and crew. The open-bridge policy creates a great connection point; it is deeply humanizing. —Sarah Kuta
