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Postcard From the Pontine Islands: This Louis Vuitton Artistic Director Owns a Cave on the Italian Archipelago

When did you first discover the Pontine islands?

“The Isole Pontine are very special to me. I have been visiting Ventotene and Ponza, the larger two of the six islands, since I was a child, as my family was one of the first to buy property on Ventotene. My mother was born in Rome, and it’s where my parents first met. Even though we lived abroad all our lives, we always returned to Italy to visit relatives. My family’s a bit unusual in that Romans tend to holiday more in Ponza, whereas Ventotene is more Neapolitan.”

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The view from Francesca Amfitheatrof’s Ventotene home.

Stefan Giftthaler

How would you describe them?

“Just gorgeous. Ventotene has an incredible history. It was the first island to be used as a holiday destination—by Augustus, the first emperor of Rome. He built a palace, a harbor, gardens, and aqueducts. Ventotene is also where the manifesto for a united Europe (the precursor to the EU) was written during the Second World War. But the archipelago remains largely undiscovered. The lesser-known Palmarola island has only a handful of houses and one restaurant, which can only be reached by boat.”

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Mezzatorre is Amfitheatrof’s favorite hotel on Ischia.

Madeline Lu

Where do you stay?

“I own a cave on Ventotene, which I transformed into a James Bond-like lair. It’s pretty unique. It has whitewashed, natural walls and ceilings, with exposed geological forms, and a sunken seating area around a fireplace. The furnishings are a mixture of vintage and mid-century pieces: a 1970s wicker palm by Mexican artist Mario Lopez Torres, modular table lamps from Japan. The outdoor kitchen overlooks the sea and is great for hosting.”

Are there any hotels on the islands that you recommend?

“For Ventotene, I suggest my cousin’s Hotel Agave e Ginestra, on the south coast. It’s simple and elegant, and has beautiful gardens that slope down towards the sea cliffs. Even if you’re not staying there, do go for the food—so fresh and perfectly cooked. In Ischia, I highly recommend Mezzatorre by chic hotelier Marie-Louise Sciò—it’s so fabulous. She also owns La Posta Vecchia, the old Getty villa, outside Rome, and Hotel Il Pellicano on the Argentario coast. Mezzatorre is in an ancient red fort on its own mini peninsula at the northernmost peak of the island. On Ponza, the Grand Hotel Santa Domitilla is the best for a luxury stay, or there’s Hotel Feola, a very charming boutique.”