In Tibet, tsampa-eater has also become shorthand for native Tibetans. As the historian Tsering Shakya wrote in his essay, “Wither the Tsampa eater,” the dish became a popular sign of Tibetan resistance to occupation. “If Buddhism provided the atom of Tibetanness, then tsampa provided the sub-particles of Tibetanness,” Shakya wrote.
But in Queens, Tibetan tradition still rests comfortably aside establishments like Dawa’s, where one can enjoy pesto gnocchi and natural wine between bites of Nepali-inspired jhol momos and Bhutanese stew. During my visit to the cozy restaurant, I watched owner Dawa Bhuti prepare homemade sourdough bread with olives while Himalayan-style momos cooked in a steamer nearby. “Just as we expect people to embrace our culture, we have to enjoy and respect the culture we live in,” says Bhuti.
In this way, Tibetan food serves an important reminder that, in Bhuti’s words, “our culture doesn’t have to be all about the suffering.” Even as a form of resistance, there is space for invention and reinvention. As Tibetans adapt to new homes, co-opt some dishes, and spin out others like the Chinese liang fen in new ways, they’re continually pushing the possibilities of what Tibetan food—and being Tibetan—can be.
A Tibetan food crawl through Queens
Besides poethek, Khampa Kitchen also serves curried Lhasa rice flavored with turmeric, a spice brought over from neighboring India by Muslim traders in the 1600s; a cold beef tongue salad dripping in Sichuan oil and scallions; and bhatsa maku, a dessert made out of wheat rolled into shell-like pieces, topped with butter and yak cheese.
A no-frills restaurant in Elmhurst, Queens, Lhasa Liangfen specializes in laphing (or liang fen), a cold gelatinous noodle made out of mung bean starch. Enjoy these as classic white noodles in a bowl of soup with meat or vegetables, or as flat noodles that are made yellow with turmeric, rolled into cylindrical shapes, and stuffed with Nepalese Wai Wai noodles.
A popular brunch spot for younger Himalayan groups who want to enjoy a glass of wine with dishes like riki kur, a traditional Sherpa potato flatbread served with scallion and green chili cheese spread or shabaley, a Tibetan beef patty with chili garlic sauce. Pancakes and citrusy grapefruit salads are also on offer, on a separate American menu.
In Jackson Heights, you can choose to dine at either Phayul 1 (the original) or its successor, aptly named Phayul 2. In either case, you can’t go wrong with your order. Phayul’s soupy shapaley, or fried empanadas, are always a nice treat, as are the spicy Lhasa fried noodles that arrive smothered in soy sauce and spicy peppers. If you’re vegetarian and want a plate of steaming dumplings, their deep-fried potato momos with a side of heavy chilli oil will do the trick.
At the banquet-like space that is Nhasang in Elmhurst, dinner feels like a feast, an event. Owners and waiters welcome you in traditional Tibetan chupa (a wrapped garment) and its extensive menu features everything from steamed fluffy bread called tingmo to a simple nomadic beef dish made of boiled meat offered with a side of potatoes and chilli pepper. Nhasang also offers more Sichuan mainstays like mapo tofu and dan dan noodles.
Tenzin D. Tsagong is a writer and editor based in Brooklyn, New York.
