Whalen’s ability seems like a super power, but it’s actually more science than anything. “I know the patterns,” he said. “They’ll come around the shoal chasing capelin. They’re going to exhale a certain amount of meters in the air.” He described how you can tell if it’s a short or deep dive depending on how high the tail goes up—if it does at all—and you can tell the direction they’re going by a slickness on the surface of the water. That last bit is called the whale’s footprint.
“The humpback especially is going to wave his tail at you,” Whalen said, waving his own hand and laughing. “It’s almost like he’s saying ‘see you later.’”
I thought of my whale-tail goodbyes the morning I left Triton. I walked over to the pavilion to offer my own parting words. There, a group of nine people, half of them speaking French, were watching the bay with Whalen.
“I’ve never seen a whale before,” a woman from Michigan said in passing. But just being near Whalen seems to summon the majestic creatures. Within minutes, a minke whale’s sleek back rose just above the surface of the water. Suddenly, everyone was pointing and talking, shouts of excitement in multiple languages. A pair of binoculars passed up and down the line. The minke receded beneath the surface.
I snapped a photo of Whalen and the group as a parting shot. In it, the Whale Whisperer of Triton stands in the middle of a line of people, pointing out to the water, showing the group exactly where they can expect to see a whale blessing its audience and surfacing for air. And then, right after I took the photograph, it did just that.
Visiting Triton, Newfoundland
Whether you’re a whale fanatic or want to experience the other wildlife of Triton (such as moose, bear, and dolphins), these activities that put you in the heart of the action.
Captain Mike does more than just iceberg and whale tours. He’s also a commercial fisherman; join him to pull up lobster pots or fishing nets, or accompany his family to their island cottage for a crab boil.
Triton is part of a seven-stop driving trail through northeastern Newfoundland, taking you to different spots for whale watching.
Hiking trails in the area
Triton and the nearby towns of Brighton and Robert’s Arm all have hiking trails, ranging from 2 to 15 miles. Enjoy ocean views, berry foraging, and picnic spots along the way.
