My first visit to Gulab Ji Chai was at 5:30 a.m. a few years ago, after a night of heavy partying. No other place was open so early and my friends and I desperately needed a warm cup to calm our spinning heads. So we called for some chai, loved it, and ordered seconds; we’ve now made it our go-to for hangover mornings. The kadak chai, buzzing crowd, and sweet scent of tea immediately wake you up. Get the sweet kadak chai—the place is too busy for any customizations—and the very popular bun maska. It’s soft as a cloud and doused in butter. Raghuveer Tea Stall is located above the verandas in the walled city of Jaipur, giving a panoramic view of the city. The sound of shop shutters rolling up, temple bells, and vegetable vendors with gorgeous sunrise and sunset views makes it one of the most soothing chai spots in the city. The best part about Raghuveer is how customisable their tea is. I always get the ‘paani zyada doodh kam’ version with no sugar. But bhaiya is happy to customize it however you’d like.”
Mumbai
Recommendation from Suprita Mitter, food writer: “I’m Bengali-born and raised in Mumbai. My grandmother was raised in Kolkata, and in that house, evening tea was always an event. Everyone sat around the table, the good crockery was brought out and tea cosies were laid. I’ve always liked tea and prefer it without milk, as it is typically served in Kolkata; Darjeeling tea is my favorite. In Mumbai, my favorite spot is Taj Mahal Tea House. That’s where I had my first date with my partner as well. I love their Smoky Mountain Tea. I also really enjoy the sulemani chai at Prithvi Cafe, which comes with a slice of lime.”
Delhi
Recommendations from Shirin Mehrotra, food writer: “My go-to chai order anywhere is a kadak chai with less sugar. In Delhi, I enjoy Dahiya Dhaba, Cafe Lota, and the tea stall in CR Park Market No.1. At Cafe Lota, the chai and the food is great; I always get the palak patta chaat and the bite-sized sabudana vadas in a paper cone with chai. The café is inside an art museum and is not too noisy, which is why I particularly enjoy it. The chai is strong, not too sweet and doesn’t have elaichi, which I appreciate because I don’t enjoy it. At Dahiya Dhaba, I always get the sattu paratha along with chai. The a stall in Chittaranjan Park is closer to where I live, so it feels very familiar at this point. For me, chai stalls are great vantage points to understand a city; I like to just sit there with a cup of chai, observe and sometimes even listen to the conversations happening around me.”
Pune
Recommendation from Suprita Mitter, food writer: “One of my favorite places is French Window Patisserie. They’re known for their baked goods, but I love their rose tea. They don’t believe in any fanciness. It’s a simple cup of hot rose tea. This was the cup of tea that calmed my nerves the first time I was meeting my partner’s parents, and ever since then, it’s the place I come to when I need a break or just have a little time to myself. I usually order the opera cake with the rose tea. Paashh, in Kalyani Nagar, has an exhaustive tea menu from which I favor the marigold tea. The place has these large floor-to-ceiling windows that allow you to enjoy views of the beautiful garden outside. It’s very soothing, which is what I want to feel when I’m having a cup of tea. I also enjoy their Flower Power salad and flourless cake. Irani Cafe has branches all over Pune and I enjoy their sulemani chai, which is served with pieces of dates.”
Bengaluru
Recommendation from Ruth Dsouze Prabhu, food writer: “Makkah Cafe is an absolute experience. It’s an old-world spot that’s seen generations of tea drinkers over the years and is typically filled with students. You’re lucky to find an empty spot on one of the benches, but you can also just stand and enjoy a quick cup. I love their sulemani chai and kova buns. I have been going there regularly ever since I moved to Bengaluru 22 years ago. It was the perfect place for broke newcomers like me back then, and was at the top of my list for exploring the street-food culture of the city when I got into food writing. Now, it’s a place of comfort whenever I’m in the area. It also helps that Khazana Food Paradise, a place famous for its beef biryani, is close by.”
