With its cow-studded green valleys, snow-capped peaks, and glitzy ski resorts, Switzerland is the kind of place that most people think they know. But this country in the heart of Europe is worth another look. Take, for instance, its notoriously expensive largest city, Zürich, which never seems to get enough credit for its progressive outlook, oft-overlooked art and music scenes, and a skyline shaped by staggeringly diverse architectural voices, including Le Corbusier, Santiago Calatrava, and Shigeru Ban. Its Alpine ski towns, with big names like Verbier, Davos, and Zermatt, meanwhile, are expanding their offerings beyond the snow season: The Engadin Valley, home to St. Moritz, has become a warm-weather hot spot, with hundreds of miles of hiking trails, electric mountain bikes for rent, and all manner of adventure sports, including paragliding, kitesurfing, and even class-4 whitewater-rapids rafting through Giarsun Gorge. But, of course, the classics still sing. After tackling the country’s rugged terrain, you’ve earned a stay in the new Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern, a stunningly remade Belle Epoque grande-dame hotel originally opened in 1906.