Perched above the sea and the river, the Kasbah des Oudayas, entered through imposing stone arches, is Rabat’s historic citadel, a small neighborhood of narrow winding alleys, private homes and guesthouses, along with eye-popping views of the Atlantic and the neighboring town of Salé. Don’t miss the peaceful palm-filled Andalusian Gardens on the edge of the Kasbah, filled with palms, bougainvillea and orange trees.
This year sees the return of the much-loved Mawazine Rythmes du Monde music festival after a three-year hiatus. Taking place from June 21 to 29, Mawazine is in the running to be one of the most democratic music festivals in the world, with free entry to 90% of the events held across six stages in Rabat and Salé. This year’s line-up is yet to be released, but previous years have featured big names like David Guetta, Rihanna and Maluma, along with a rich program of performances from across Morocco, the Arab world and Africa.
Located in the 19th century Borj El Kebir fort on the edge of the Atlantic, the dramatic venue is as much a draw as the exhibitions within. The museum’s focus is on Moroccan photographers, and it’s a great place to get a glimpse of contemporary culture through the eyes of the country’s next generation of artistic talent.
Musée national de la Photographie
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Musée national de la Photographie
Rabat’s museum of modern and contemporary art marks its tenth anniversary this year. The permanent collection features works by more than 200 Moroccan artists, including photographer Hassan Hajjaj, known for his pop-art portraits, and the late Mohamed Melehi, famed for his brightly colored paintings and murals.
Where to eat
Hidden inside the kasbah, the Café des Oudayas (also sometimes referred to as Café Maure) is a joy to stumble upon. Perched on the edge of the citadel with views over the neighboring town of Salé and the river below, it’s a place loved by Rabat residents, visitors and sleepy cats alike. Order a Moroccan mint tea and wait for the tray of sweets to be brought around. The gazelle horns, crescent-shaped cookies filled with almond paste and orange blossom water, are particularly good.
Tucked away in the Medina behind a bright yellow wooden door is the cozy, casual Dar Zaki. From the crispy seafood pastillas to classic couscous and fragrant tagines, this is the place to fill up on traditional Moroccan dishes. The presentation is simple, but the flavors are deliciously complex. Also inside the Medina, at the top of a narrow alley that leads down to the river, are a handful of food stalls selling sandwiches stuffed with fried fish, spicy harissa, tomato and eggplant. You can’t really go wrong with any of them, but look for the one with the longest line of locals.
Located at the Royal Golf Dar Es Salam, a half-hour drive out of the city past handsome tree-lined neighborhoods of embassies and elegant villas, Le Clubhouse Robuchon’s setting on the edge of the greens is quite idyllic. Whether you’re a golfer or not, the tall palms and birds of paradise plants offer a beautifully bucolic setting for a long, lazy lunch. The menu meanders through salads, sandwiches and quiches as well as some French classics, but the Joël Robuchon beef burger is also a hit, served with seriously good French fries.
