Saint Jean’s most famous resident may be the cherry-red Eden Rock–St Barths hotel (and its neighboring Sunday beach club staple, Nikki Beach), but if you gaze further out at the cerulean-dyed water, you’ll spot sea turtles swimming just beneath the waves—plus this is a prime vantage point to watch planes land in the distance. On the western end of the island, make the 30-minute trek in Colombier down a sandy trail to the namesake beach, reachable only by foot or via yachts which anchor in the crystal-clear cove.
The island’s periphery is lined with lagoons, sand dunes, salt marshes, and even spectacular surf—but you may have to go slightly off-roading to reach some of the more remote piscines naturelles (natural pools), like Petit Cul-de-Sac. Two beaches worth seeking out: clear-as-glass Gouverneur for snorkeling (you may find a few other surprises, like nude sunbathers) and the untouched Anse de Grande Saline, whose secluded locale—accessed via untamed rocky footpath—make it one of the island’s lesser-visited stretches of coastline.
Where to eat and drink
The decade-old Saint Barth Gourmet Festival is the unofficial seasonal kick-off in mid-November, coinciding with beach club openings. St. Barts doesn’t get the same culinary attention as, say, the Cayman Islands, but restaurants here boast plenty of big-name chefs and young, soon-to-be superstars who’ve done stints—or held reign—in the South of France. Days are dictated by restaurant reservations, and a few favorites are part of St. Barts regulars’ rotation: hillside Bonito for sunset drinks, Parisian transplant Kinugawa for haute izakaya (and sushi rolls combining both caviar and wagyu), and tucked-away Tamarin St Barth for French-Caribbean fusion and a wine cellar you’d expect more in Monaco than a lantern-lit garden.
Part of the luxury of St. Barts is slipping off stilettos for toes-in-the-sand dining at spots like La Petite Plage on the port, or heading to bordello-inspired cabaret-club and champagne tavern Le Ti, where you can even don a costume of your own from the back closet and dance once the official show wraps up. Lounge-like La Guérite is already a popular pick on the port for its Mediterranean-style plates and music that follows the mood of the crowd throughout the evening, heating up as dinner comes to a close and diners start dancing around (and on) tables.
This season, La Guérite Beach opened on St. Jean Beach with Athens-born chef Yiannis Kioroglou once again behind the menu of locally sourced seafood and Greek-influenced fare like filo-wrapped feta and whole cauliflower prepped tableside. An homage to the original beach club off the coast of Cannes, this outpost replicates elements from the Riviera through a Provence-style terraced garden layout and sandstone mosaic inspired by the floors of Villa Kérylos in Beaulieu-sur-Mer. The seaside soirée doesn’t crescendo until long after lunch. Linger on one of the lounge chairs along the water catching the last rays of sun while sipping rosé and swaying to the pulsating music matching the rhythm of the waves.
Where to stay
The small island is a hotel heavy-hitter, with nearly a dozen five-star properties sporting some of the biggest names in luxury hospitality. You’ll find everything from the Caribbean’s only French Palace, Cheval Blanc St-Barth, where Michelin-starred chef Jean Imbert is behind restaurant La Case, to Hôtel Barrière Le Carl Gustaf St Barth, home to Monaco-based Beefbar’s first Caribbean outpost—another newcomer this season. The original grand dame on the island, Eden Rock–St Barths hasn’t lost an ounce of glamor in its 70 years—and looks better than ever thanks to a major two-year renovation after the hurricane. Design superstar Martin Brudnizki (behind iconic members’ club Annabel’s in London) re-envisioned Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Sand Bar and the centerpiece, British colonial-style Rémy Bar & Salon, where sunbathers from St. Jean Beach congregate in chic cover-ups and sarongs for post-plage cocktails.
