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In 2021, I spent a blissful year traveling solo across Italy. Not just because I didn’t have a companion, but because, with international travel still largely blocked due to COVID, my country felt empty. Can you imagine Venice without the crowds? I don’t have to. I lived it. So exhilarating was my time training through the boot that when travel opened back up, and the hot spots became flooded with travelers, I said to myself: never again. From now on, I would rearrange my travels to avoid the crowds—and the headaches that come with them. I will be an off-season traveler, for life.
The benefits of off-season travel can feel endless. Yes, of course there are fewer crowds to interrupt your flow, and steal your tables at the restaurants you want to eat at. I went to the Amalfi in April—April!—and found it heavenly. The weather was glorious—not too hot, but warm enough to swim. The staff at the then-new Borgo Santandrea were friendlier and upgrades more likely due to the time of year. And my room was spectacular. I still remember the scent of lemon flowers and fresh herbs in the terraced gardens. The views over the sky-merging sea were pure, with no yacht or boat to interrupt them. I even enjoyed a walk through the Amalfi’s narrow streets, devoid of the hundreds of clueless tourists, especially from cruise ships which populate the sea in High Summer.
Local engagement is always higher outside peak season, and for me, that is why we travel. Last year, I chose June for Patmos in Greece, which is never as crowded as it is in July or August. The island was greener and the heat more bearable. The crowds? Still tolerable. I arrived with a last-minute booked cabin on the BlueStar from Athens, all much more relaxing. I met with some of the home owners of the Chora, there to ‘open’ the houses, after long cold months, piling cushions and mattresses outside on the terraces to let them breathe in the sun. I swam every morning, and had lovely conversations with restaurant owners and locals. I loved the place so much I went back in August. Guess what? I regretted it.
Traveling in lesser expected times of year also help you to see a place in an entirely different way. Is it weird that I didn’t realize that St Moritz is not just a winter destination? With a major heat wave hitting central Europe and the UK I made my way to the Engadin Valley at the beginning of August. I checked in at the old-fashioned Suvretta House, at a reasonable price, where I was welcomed by name. Long walks through the valley, skinny dips in the clear waters of the alpine lakes, visits to interesting museums and art galleries kept me very busy. And I wore cashmere in the evenings, for the outdoor cinema. For the rest of August I was in London. And it wasn’t that bad. I found it fairly easy to book my favorite restaurants, I went to see ballets at the Royal Opera House and a couple of plays at the theater. And reconnected with some good friends. A trick about cities and seasons? They are amazing in the summer, when the people who live there or normally visit, flock to the outdoors.
