“There are a lot more local concepts now,” says Dona Murad, who believes the reason it took a while for a movement to develop is because Bahraini cuisine is very much rooted in the home. “Every home has its own unique way of preparing dishes. The culture is very hospitable, so people didn’t feel the need to go out for it; they wanted to bring someone to their home and feed them.”
There is one exception, however: Bahraini tikka. “The experience of having hot bread with grilled meat marinated in black lime is much nicer when you eat out,” says Dona Murad. “When I have people visiting, I first bring them to my place to show how I grew up eating, but then I always take them out for tikka.” While Murad’s haunt of choice is Manama’s Tikka & Kebab Ameen, a no-frills grill restaurant, Bashmi takes her visitors to Al Naeem Grills in Muharraq for tikka, then Tabreez in seaside Tubli for fresh seafood.
It may be established on the island, but there’s still a way to go before Khaleeji cuisine is recogniszd beyond the region. Bashmi says that on a recent trip to London she noticed a wider variety of Middle Eastern dishes and ingredients on menus, ranging from labneh to za’atar. “But Khaleeji food hasn’t gone far enough, apart from black lime,” she maintains. “It’s still not discovered or understood, but that’s what I’m trying to do, and it’s what Dona’s trying to do in New York.”
She’s happy to be able to share her heritage with the world via food-related events and collaborations. “As an ambassador of the cuisine, I would like it to be showcased in its purest form before it’s manipulated in another way.” For now, Bashmi is content working on the island, but she’s adamant her next big step will be an overseas venture. “It’s our time to shine.”
A version of this article originally appeared on Condé Nast Traveller Middle East.
